By Rachel Hawkins, licensed esthetician, 25+ years · November 2026
They're the two ingredients I get asked about most for breakout-prone skin. They do different jobs, and many people do best with both.
Salicylic acid: the pore clearer
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), not an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It's oil-soluble, so it works inside the pore, loosening the dead cells and oil that form plugs. It's ideal for blackheads, congestion and oily T-zones. Try Salicylic Acid.
✨ Ask Rae: Salicylic acid is a BHA that clears inside the pore. BPO is your go-to for red blemishes.
Benzoyl peroxide: the blemish-day workhorse
Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) is a long-standing ingredient for blemish-prone skin and helps keep pores clear. It suits skin with red, inflamed-looking blemishes. Try Benzoyl Peroxide 10%, and remember that it can bleach fabric.
Using both
- Use one in the morning and the other at night, or alternate days.
- Start slowly, a few times a week, and build up.
- Always follow with a light moisturizer like the Balancing Emulsion, and wear SPF 30 in the morning.
Quick guide
| If you mostly have… | Start with |
|---|---|
| Blackheads, congestion, oily T-zone | Salicylic acid (BHA) |
| Red, inflamed-looking blemishes | Benzoyl peroxide |
| A mix of both | Both, alternated |
FAQ
Is salicylic acid an AHA? No. It's a BHA. AHAs, like glycolic or mandelic acid, are water-soluble and work on the surface, while BHAs work inside the pore.
Can I layer them at the same time? Some skin tolerates it, but alternating is gentler.
Which is better for sensitive skin? Start with salicylic acid a few times a week, then patch test before adding anything else.
Ask Rae: take the skin quiz and get matched to the right Kage products for your skin, the same way Rachel would in her treatment room.