By Rachel Hawkins, licensed esthetician, 25+ years · Updated November 2026
I've worked with breakout-prone skin since I opened Kage in 1998, and the first thing I tell every client is this: breakouts are common, they're not your fault, and they respond to a steady, consistent routine.
What's going on inside a pore
Every pore is lined with skin cells that shed constantly. In breakout-prone skin, those cells shed faster than the pore can clear them. They stick together with oil (sebum) and form a plug, which estheticians call an impaction. Hormones, stress and some cosmetics can increase oil and make plugs more likely.
A plug you can see today started forming weeks ago. That's why picking at one blemish doesn't change much, and why I focus on the whole face, every day.
✨ Ask Rae: The blemish you see today started weeks ago. Treat your whole face daily, not just the spot.
The routine I recommend
- Cleanse twice a day with a cleanser matched to your skin, like the Extra Strength Cleanser for oily skin or the Gentle Cleanser for sensitive or dry skin.
- Exfoliate gently with the Scrub to lift the dead cells that form plugs.
- Apply your clarifying step to the entire face, not just to spots. That might be Salicylic Acid or Benzoyl Peroxide 10%.
- Moisturize lightly with the Balancing Emulsion or Clarifying Emulsion.
- Wear SPF every morning. Morning Moisture SPF 30 is light enough for oily skin.
Not sure which products fit your skin? Take the Kage skin quiz. It matches you to products the same way I would in my treatment room.
Hands off
Squeezing pushes debris deeper and can leave marks that last much longer than the blemish. If a spot is angry, hold an ice cube wrapped in a soft cloth on it for a minute instead.
FAQ
Is acne only a teenage problem? No. Many adults, especially women, get breakouts well into adulthood because of hormones and stress.
How long before I see a difference? Give a consistent routine 6–8 weeks. Pores take that long to clear what's already forming.
Should I see a doctor? If breakouts are painful, cystic or leaving scars, see a dermatologist alongside your home care.
Ask Rae: take the skin quiz and get matched to the right Kage products for your skin, the same way Rachel would in her treatment room.